Review: Oddfellows. A gastronomic gem in the heart of Chester

by Angela Johnson. Published Fri 13 Nov 2009 10:32, Last updated: 2009-11-13

It is rare that one finds a restaurant that delivers a feeling of exclusivity mixed so effortlessly with a warm and friendly welcome.

Located in the heart of Chester, Oddfellows has transformed a run-down 17th Century Georgian manor house into a gastronomic gem.

The impressive décor in each differently-themed room may not be to everyone’s taste as it is so unusual. The kooky interior design shows great attention to detail that could be described as dramatic, opulent, awe-inspiring, unique and, yes, odd. But it works. Embracing the building's history whilst pushing the boundaries of conventional furnishing.

The ground-level Pantry is perfect for lunchtime or evening meals, littered with mirrors and comfy cushions, Cuckoo clocks informing diners of World Time Zones and even a stag’s head bearing a bowler hat, nicknamed Colin.

The playful feel continues in The Alice in Wonderland room, which offers a thrilling private dining experience, seating up to 15 (17 if it were possible to attach yourself to the ceiling display of upside down table and chairs.)

The venue’s grandeur boasts four hotel rooms, two further private dining rooms, a champagne bar, members' lounge, and a spacious garden terrace complete with Moroccan-style tents, fully equipped with heaters for the chilly winter months. Accommodating smokers’ needs in such luxurious surroundings is rare to find nowadays, with Oddfellows firing on all cylinders in order to please customers.

The pick of the bunch is the Brasserie, offering a beautifully sophisticated atmosphere. Dimly lit candles and music set at a considerate volume, combine to create an ambiance perfect for romancing, a family celebration or to make a lasting impression on business contacts.

Service was first class and, most importantly, speedy, but not rushed. A delicate balance so many restaurateurs fail to deliver.

Waiting staff were courteous, polite and put the diner at their ease. A snooty waiter smirking at a wine list faux pas can so often ruin an otherwise enjoyable meal. Not the case at Oddfellows.

The menu itself aided wine-list phobics, offering tips on which wine best suits the dish ordered. Advice my reasonably educated palate could not criticise, leaving me only to curse my role as designated driver.

On a cold, mid-week night the venue was bustling. The reason? As they say, the proof is in the pudding… Or the starters, as the case may be.

Presentation alone impressed with its careful attention to detail. Lobster salad served in a martini glass was, in actuality, an elegant version of the prawn cocktail, but nonetheless delicious.

The salmon and crab fishcake with pickled cucumber, carefully presented on a wooden slab, accompanied with tartar sauce was simply divine.

The a la carte menu, devised by Celebrity chef Richard Phillips (Ready, Steady Cook), cannot be faulted for its mouth-watering variety of locally sourced dishes.

Vegetarians may well find their choice limited with only one main and one special offered, but I was pleased to note mushroom entirely absent from the dishes. An unimaginative option so often bemoaned by frustrated vegetarian friends of mine.

Meat lovers, on the other hand, are spoilt. Although tempted by the slow cooked chicken with smoked bacon to share, we decided to sample differing delights from Richard Phillips’ selection.

The venison loin melted-in-the-mouth, cooked to perfection, accompanied by red cabbage fused with blackberry flavours which genuinely tantalised the taste buds.

Yet the superior dish was without doubt my partner’s 35-day hung sirloin steak, served with blue cheese dauphinoise potatoes, flavour oozed from each tender bite.

I regret the missed opportunity to sample a sophisticated twist on traditional fish and chips, with lightly curried battered cod paired with ‘triple cooked’ chips and minted peas. All the more reason to come back.

Although nearly over-faced by the mains, we were unable to resist the temptation of the decadent dessert list.

Opting for a zingy lemon tart with raspberry sorbet, and an apple and raspberry crumble topped with vanilla custard - both were a gut-busting taste sensation.

At £20 for the steak, in a Recession-conscious climate, some may well balk at the prices. I urge you to put aside such worries for one evening.

Oddfellows delivers quality for money, guaranteed to leave a sweet taste in your mouth and memories of a unique dining experience you truly will not find anywhere else.

Breakfasts, lunches, afternoon teas, evening meals and private functions (including weddings) are available at Oddfellows Chester.

Call 01244 400 001 or email hello@oddfellows.biz for further information.

Oddfellows,
20, Lower Bridge Street,
Chester,
CH1 1RS





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