Weaving through Covent Garden crowds over the Jubilee bank holiday, Browns Bar and Brasserie, St Martin's Lane, proved a safe haven amidst the exhausting patriotic festivities.
Located in the heart of London's West End, a hop, skip and jump from Leicester Square, Browns occupies a Grade II listed building (formerly the Westminister Law Courts) which provides both a welcoming and spacious setting.
Even during the busy Saturday evening rush Browns easily accommodated my friend and I amongst its stylish decor. Dark wood tables and cream painted walls, original grand spiral staircase and an expansive bar in the centre of the space combine to create an inviting ambiance for drinks or dinner.
Theatre goers would do well to avoid blindly flocking to over-priced establishments on Leicester Square and instead take advantage of Browns' fixed price menu. Two courses for £13.95 with the option to add a third course for £4. Browns invites diners to come back and enjoy third course after the show so long as you can present your bill.
Browns' extensive A la Carte menu comprises of old favourites such as fish and chips, hearty beefburgers and puff pastry pies through to Chef Specials chalked up each day which included Beef Wellington or Sea Bass on our visit.
Navigating throngs of tourists had been thirsty work and, upon arrival, my friend and I welcomed the offer of a cocktail, opting for the Classic Bellini (£5.75) - Prosecco and white peach - while I right royally indulged in the Pimm’s Royale (£7.95), a refreshing combination of Pimm’s No 1 and Champagne with a strawberry garnish.
To start, my dining companion and I both chose seafood after our very amiable waitress recommended the Carpaccio of Seared Tuna (£8.95) with celeriac remoulade and balsamic vinaigrette. Large flavoursome chunks of beautifully presented seared tuna were perfectly offset by the creamy remoulade and sharp balsamic.
My friend opted for a twist on a classic favourite - Tiger Prawn Cocktail (£6.95) Plump, juicy tiger prawns in a marie-rose sauce with freshly grated horseradish and semi-dried cherry tomatoes. The presentation of soggy strips of iceberg lettuce and a drizzle of marie-rose sauce left a little to be desired but I was assured the tiger prawns themselves were satisfyingly tasty.
Between courses my friend ordered a second glass of Bellini cocktail while I chose from the extensive wine selection - Nero D’Avola, Tola, Sicily, Italy (13%) (£4.95 a glass or £16.95 for the bottle). A velvety mix of wild raspberries, a hint of spice and a smoky finish nicely complemented my chosen main - Beef Wellington (£16.95) served in a red wine jus with roast potatoes. The healthy chunk of steak was a little on the tough side, but the accompanying pâté and duxelles garnish were a treat for the tastebuds, all neatly wrapped in a generous puff pastry.
My friend enjoyed the Braised Shoulder of Welsh Lamb (£16.95) with a casserole of pearl barley, spinach, root vegetables and broad beans, assuring me the meat was melt-in-the-mouth. Having neglected to order side dishes, it was pleasing to find the individual portions plentiful and yet still leave some room for pudding.
With a little red yet to polish off, I chose the Cheese Board (£8.95) - a superb selection of water biscuits, celery, seedless grapes and a tangy homemade red onion chutney truly complemented the Brie, Danish Blue and Cheddar cheeses mounded upon the board. Tempted by the White Chocolate & Raspberry Blondie (£5.95) served with raspberry coulis and strawberry ice cream, my friend was most impressed by the dessert course. Beautiful presentation and a generous helping made for fantastic value, and left a very pleasant taste in the mouth for the overall Browns experience.
Quality dishes at affordable prices appear to be the Browns guarantee, but it was the splendid, speedy service and calm atmosphere at even the busiest working hours that left a lasting impression. I had once considered Browns as an 'upmarket' JD Wetherspoons but the brasserie far exceeded my expectations, and the Covent Garden establishment is set to blossom yet further with the opening of upstairs, The Courtroom 1 and four function rooms for special events and occasions.
Traditional Afternoon Teas and a fantastic deal for families from the Children's Menu each Sunday (Complimentary dining for one child per adult eating two courses.) means there is a little something for everyone at Browns, whatever the celebration, any day of the week.
8/10
For further information or to book your table visit: http://www.browns-restaurants.co.uk/locations/covent-garden/
