Review: Salt House Tapas, Hanover Street, Liverpool ONE

by Angela Johnson. Published Thu 24 Feb 2011 22:53, Last updated: 2011-03-03

Hospitality appears to be the watchword at Salt House Tapas. Situated on Hanover Street, it is a world away from the flurry of chain restaurants in Liverpool ONE. A spacious split-level venue, delicately lit and filled with light wooden dining furniture, with each wooden bench dotted with comfortable cushions it is surprisingly cosy.

Owner Paddy Smith and Head Chef Martin Renshaw have a collective 50 years' experience, boasting ten years as the successful food team behind Mediterranean chain Ego. Branching out in a new venture, they pride themselves on offering an authentic, relaxed tapas experience at Salt House. Despite having no personal roots in España, their passion for rustic, quality dishes more than oozes through in their flavoursome menu.

To help us along while perusing the array of tasty morsels on offer we ordered Gordal Olives, virgin oil and sea salt - huge green orbs sprinkled with sea salt - were a genuinely new experience on this olive fiend. Hoovered up within moments, a perfect complement to the crisp Libby's Toast with olive oil and PX Vinegar.

Appetites well and truly whetted, my dining companion and I begged the question "How many dishes will be enough for two?" Whenever dining at a tapas restaurant a panic sets in that we will foolishly order far too much or, in truth, too little! Not a fear in Salt House, our extremely accommodating waitress was clearly used to the rookie enquiry and assured us there would be chance to order more should we feel necessary. In order to leave room for the eye-catching list of puddings, we selected three dishes apiece and weren't disappointed, difficult though it was to choose between the tantalising bowls on offer.

Sticky quince roasted pork belly with fennel, apple and chorizo, Slowly cooked lamb served with spiced pancetta lentils, Sauteed chicken, chorizo, red onion and padron peppers, Prawns cooked in garlic and chili and olive oil and Char grilled fillet steak served pink with crushed white beans, spinach and picos cheese and Fried potatoes with brava sauce.

Each dish presented to the diner as it is ready, the service was pleasantly staggered as opposed to hurriedly finding space on both the table and your belly for the vast variety of flavours. Arriving first came the prawns which were a delicious start to our taste of the mediterranean. Potatoes Brava arrived soon after and before we knew it the lot had disappeared. Service was prompt and as one plate cleared a second huge helping of something delicious arrived, giving an enjoyable sense of surprise and anticipation to the meal.

Highlights for meat lovers were certainly the generous portions of succulent fillet steak and roasted pork belly, atop which lay a piece of crackling which my friend assured me was crisped to perfection and mouthwateringly delicious.

Too tempting to turn down, we asked for a few moments before eyeing up the dessert menu. Turron nougat caramel mousse and Salt House Sundae - Vanilla ice cream, fudge sauce, flake, cookies and cream - won our vote and a satisfied silence fell as we tucked in to the sweet sensations. Magnífico!

8/10

Salt House, Hanover Street, L1 3DW. For bookings or enquiries please telephone: 0151 706 0092





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