There was a time, not that long ago, when the name of Blakes was synonymous with that of a firm renowned for selling Ford motor cars in Liverpool.
That Blakes is now a fading memory in the minds of folk above a certain age, since the car dealership folded in 1998.
The new Blakes, however, is surely making a name for itself as one of the very best restaurants in the city's commercial district, and a huge assett to the Hard Day's Night Hotel.
As first-time visitors to the restaurant, my companion and I made the slight error making our approach through the hotel, accessing the restaurant through a very unassuming door by the reception area.
In fact there is a separate, and rather grand entrance. into the diner directly from North John Street at the corner of Harrington Street.
On visiting Blakes you should forget any pre-conceived notions that you may harbour about the kind of boring, staple fayre served-up in most hotel eateries, where unchallenged chefs trade on the fact that they have a captive audience, in the shape of clients staying the night.
Far from it. Blakes stands in its own right as a truly wonderful experience in fine dining.
While the price tags on the A la Carte menu verge on the upscale side, compared to eateries peddling more mundane fayre, it is worth the small investment to experience imaginative dishes, served to perfection in a unique and superbly relaxed atmosphere.
In fact Blakes is a feast for many senses, and not least the eye. Not only is the food served as a picture on a plate, some areas of the walls are adorned with fascinating photographs of The Beatles - many taken by Sgt Peppers' cover designer Peter Blake, hence the name.
But the presence of these images is muted in the large, sympathetically-lit room and the interior designer is to be congratulated on avoiding the trap of overdoing the Fab Four theme.
We were accommodated in a booth with comfortable deep-filled leather seating that made us feel right at home and eventually, reluctant to leave.
On the menu each course is cleverly summed-up in just one "headline" word, thus avoiding the need to describe the dish in detail. Three courses can be ordered in three words.
My starter was "Haddock" - Smoked Haddock and, Bacon and Potato Chowder, Crisp Pancetta. My companion went for a Warm Smoked Haddock Tart, Dressed Leaves and Curried Oil. (This was from a Set Menu that had officially ceased service an hour earlier, but the time rule was broken with little fuss, at our request).
The soup was clearly a concoction of ingredients added to the creamy-based chowder and all the better for it. Superbly fresh and a mini meal in itself. On the other side of the table the haddock tart also went down a treat. A great opening salvo demostrating what a chef can achieve with everyday ingredients and the addition of real flair.
Other starters included, Salmon, Venison, Pork Belly (sounds prosaic but I bet it's good judging by the standards set) with a Risotto and a Pumpkin dish for vegetarians.
For the Main Courses we were really spoilt for choice. I plumped for "Duck" - a seared Duck breast, braised duck leg, Wilted Spinach, Cranberry and Potato Presse, Marmalade jus. My companion went for "Lamb" - a saddle of Welsh Bred Lamb, Lamb and Prune Fagot, Sweet Potato Fondant, Seasonal Vegetables and Red Wine Sauce. We also summoned a side-order of Handcut Chips.
While the bird was advertised as "Served Pink", I felt that my duck breast could have benefitted from a little less time in the pan, but this is a matter of personal preference. It was certainly very tasty and complemented well, and generously, with the braised leg (a different taste altogether) and the nicely al dente vegetables.
On the other side of the table the rack of lamb appeared more like a tender fillet that had been enrobed in lamb fat and lightly cooked, preserving all its juicy tenderness. I tried to beg a mouthful only to be informed it was too good to be shared!
The chips were big and chunky, served with the skins and far too much for the two of us to consume.
Other mains on offer include Pork, Cod, and a Shallot Tatin as the full vegetarian option, while for the meat lovers there was a range of 28 day aged steaks with all the trimmings.
Our puddings were "Custard" - a Baked English Custard Tart, Grated Nutmeg, Feather Lemon Biscuits, and "Orange" - Orange Cheesecake, Spiced Rhubarb Compote, Chantilly Cream, Winter Berries. Both were truly scrumptious but by this stage capacity was being reached.
We had washed it all down with a glass of red and a glass of white, both generous measures at very reasonable prices. But if you were not driving there is an excellent choice of vintages from an extensively-stocked cellar.
All the staff were very attentive, from the Maitre D' who greeted us on arrival to our waiter Adrian, who was friendly, well-informed and entertaining, along with his colleagues who were only too ready to serve us when he was out of earshot.
The kitchen is open at the rear of the room, so expect to hear your hero, the chef calling "service" occasionally, but don't be put-off, since it heralds the fact that another great meal is being whisked to a soon-to-be satisfied diner.
When we were there it was a cold night and town was quiet, but the restaurant filled-up quite well and there was a nice atmosphere. One party of about 12 appeared to be served very efficently and simultaneously, which is the mark of a well-run kitchen and organised front-of-house team.
Top marks then for Blakes Restaurant. And make no mistake this is certainly not just another 'hotel dining room'. This is an excellent restaurant that ranks among the best in the city.
Expect to pay between £30 to £45 a head and more if you splash-out on fine wine. But if your budget is more limited, get into Blakes for the "Ticket to Dine" lunch and early evening set menu when two courses will cost a bargain £9.95.
A service charge of 10% is added to all bills, though it is described as "discretionary".
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Peter Moran, Liverpool around 1 year, 5 months ago