When Liverpool declared itself "The World in One City", during its reign as European Capital of Culture in 2008, there were those critics who ridiculed the audacious claim.
Almost three years on the continued growth and increasing renown of the city, and in particular its status as a top tourist destination, have wiped the smirks off quite a few faces.
It can be convincingly argued that much of this success is due, not simply to the jamboree of arts and culture, or some rather lame advertising campaigns, but to the hard-working small businesses that make Liverpool a dynamic place that is distinctly different from any other city in the UK.
Chief among these attractions is the tremendous range and quality of its restaurants. An incredibly diverse array of styles means that visitors, and locals alike, need never become bored or jaded with the variety of food on offer at prices to suit every pocket.
Bold Street and its surrounding area has taken-on a "Left Bank" feel and is now a real Mecca for foodies, whether they are in search drinks and snacks, or eateries where meals are served to the highest standards.
A leading contender in the contest to top the Bold Street league of excellence must be The Italian Club Fish.
Situated in a commanding position, almost a the top of the street, The Italian Club Fish, is something of a landmark in its own right and a delight for the discerning palate.
It embodies a rare melange of influences from Naples and Edinburgh, drawn from the owner's Italio-Scottish roots. Describing itself as a "Cafe - Restaurant - Bar", and with an impressive seafood-dominated menu, it is clearly "La Dolce Vita" that in the ascendancy.
Owner Rosaria Crolla has conjured-up a "Little Italy" feel to the place that is both authentic and quite charming. On the walls is an array of black and white photos of Italian celebrities that compete for prominence with enchanting landscapes, depicting scenes from "Italia La Bella".
The seating, tables and place settings are simple but effective.
It's an enthralling combination that produces a welcoming mood to suit any occasion, from an informal lunch to those looking for a special, fine-dining experience.
While perusing the menu it's well-worth a foray into the Nibbles, which include succulent marinated olives that are among the best - and the biggest - on offer anywhere in the UK... and even in Italy for that matter!
The long list of hot and cold Antipasti includes a treat for lovers of shellfish with a dozen Ostriche (oysters) served with Tabasco and shallot vinegar, at an astonishingly economic price of just £15. No wonder tourists come to Liverpool and marvel at the bargain prices.
In fact I decided to save the Ostriche for another time and plumped for grilled scallops. Cooked to perfection, and complemented with porcini mushrooms, they were served on a bed of baby spinach. It was a truly mouthwatering opener.
My companion opted for Suppli di Pesce (fishcakes) which came in such a generous portion that I too sampled nearly half a fishcake. Home-made and a delightful, rich-tasting combination of fish, potatoes and spices, they were a delight.
For my main course I selected Branzino alla griglia (grilled sea bass) from a 'Specials Menu'. This was accompanied by Patate fritte (chips) and Spinacci all parmigiana (spinach lightly tossed in butter and topped with parmesan cheese). The two plump fillets of sea bass had been lightly seared to maintain their delicate taste and contrasted well with the hearty fried potatoes and tangy, fresh spinach.
But if I thought my dish was value-for-money then the Haddock and Chips, in a light beer batter, with mushy peas and tartare sauce, that arrived on the other side of the table outdid mine by a Royal Mile!
A case of "dish envy" ensued. Again, I managed to sneak a mouthful or two and I can testify to the fact that this was big portion of fish cooked to the exactingly high standards set by Milanese head chef Maurtizio Pellegrini.
To follow there was a selection of Dolci (puddings) that included an excellent Tiramisu.
The final flourish, for us, was an excellent coffee - as good as your could hope to find in the exclusive cafes in Portafino, which are shown in some of the photos on the walls.
Also on offer are menu options to suite those who are not fish-lovers, including steak and chicken dishes. Many vegetarians could indulge in the feast of fish, but those on a strict veggie diet may struggle and would, it appears, have to settle for spaghetti in tomato sauce or a selection of vegetables.
We drank refreshing Peroni beer with our meals, deciding to forego the extensive list of wines, that included reds and whites selected to accompany the various dishes on offer.
It is a sobering thought to recall that twenty-five years ago a national food guide writer came to Liverpool and found not a single restaurant worthy of inclusion, completely ignoring some of the very good Chinese restaurants that were operating in the city at that time.
Liverpool has come a long way since its twilight years of decline, re-inventing itself with a dazzling list of hotels, restaurants, entertainment, shopping and leisure facilities.
Back in the 80s a fine restaurant like The Italian Club Fish would certainly have been in that guide and there would have been queues outside every day.
Today The Italian Club Fish competes with many other excellent establishments, but it is certainly a bright star in the firmament of restaurants that now makes Liverpool a real contender for the title "European Capital of Cuisine".
* The Italian Club Fish is at 128 Bold Street, Liverpool, L1 4JA. Visit www.theitalianclubfish.co.uk or call: 0151 707 2110.
Expect to pay around £25 to £40 a head for a three-course meal with wine, or other drinks, and coffee. Tips are optional but a 10% service charge is added for parties of six or more.
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