It is fair to say that, since brand name chains and celebrity chefs began luring bag laden shoppers to their roadside retail units on the promise of a sit down and a meal deal, the gastro trade in Liverpool gone the way of opportunism rather than individualism.
That is not to discredit the fine and many independent city centre eateries who fight a nightly battle to keep corporate kitchens from taking a bite out of their profits, but spare a thought for the foodie haunts further from afield.
Their task is to tempt custom away from the bright lights, the riverside arcade, the first port of call. It's a charge not for the feint hearted, but these are the destination dining halls ran by restaurateurs who dare to say that their experience is worth the trip, and deliver.
Thankfully those people and those places, still exist. Thankfully I had the pleasure of visiting one last week.
Nova, billed as Wirral's 'latest dining experience', is a hidden gem of a restaurant whose small hub is ran by a foodie couple with big ambition.
Nigerian born chef Moyo and front of house manager Jana may be pairing from who you could expect weird and wonderful world foods, but their menu is actually a thoughtfully composed offering of classic British ingredients combined in brilliantly simple dishes.
Far from a revolutionary take on some of the nation's favourite fare, Nova's approach to well known and long admired dishes is refreshingly straightforward: Quality ingredients, expertly cooked and presented with such imagination that a smile is raised often before a fork.
Simplicity is the key for chef Moyo whose flavour combinations, if not ground breaking, are so skilfully executed they lead one to appreciate why "the classics" really are just that.
Beginning with a canapé of breaded venison balls sat atop dainty poppyseed jars, a marker for the type of attention to detail to follow was really laid down.
For us, that was perfectly cooked scallops, black pudding and belly pork (a personal barometer for chef skill, passed with flying colours) and a left field selection of broccoli pakora with mint yoghurt, a light and interesting alternative on the menu which no small amount of versatility.
Onto the marquee mains. We chose from a comprehensive grill selection, guided expertly by the ever helpful Jana who advised on sauces, sides and specialities, making the problem posed by any menu with too much choice just that little bit easier.
Eventually settling on the catch of the day, a hefty piece of stone bass, and the rack of lamb, cooked to within seconds of perfection, Nova served up a set of mains which really were events. And, as we enjoyed the sides of seasonal veg which accompanied our rustic mains, the real pleasure of eating in this small gastro gem really became obvious.
Moyo may be credited with writing a magnificent menu, but what Jana and her small team are able to do with a happy room full of customers is equally vital to the place's appeal.
Drawing laughter from every table with a candour and sincerity that is genuinely endearing, the Maitre D' is a real hit with her regulars and a pleasure to be served by.
And when asked for her chocolatiest dessert, she didn't dissappoint.
Suitably stuffed after indulging in a guilty pleasure brownie, coffee in this, the most amicable of atmospheres was an obligation more than choice. And it led to a round table appreciation of why place like Nova, where an enthusiasm for their trade is infectious as it is effective, will always retain their unique selling point.
Ready to serve restaurants may be ten-a-penny in the built up broadways of big city living. Something which is altogether more rare is that personal touch which can only be achieved by people who have a genuine affection for their craft.
In Moyo and Jana, two people more enthusiastic about their work you're unlikely to find. So for people who care about their food; to be served by people who care about their food, is worth the trip every time.
To reserve a table now call 0151 342 9959 or visit www.novarestaurant.co.uk
Click rating: 8/10
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