At some point in the last five years, Liverpool, as we locals would say, had a word with itself.
It smartened up its act, got some new shops and opened some new restaurants, set up by some TV chefs.
It decided the thing to do was to roll with the relentless retail drive which has managed to buck spending trends in even the toughest of economic climates, proving that, no matter how tight the times seem to be, we can always seem to squeeze into that new outfit.
Whatever you make of that rebirth, steeped in PR, which has seen the city centre become a riverside haven for the most try-hard of spenders, the day to day pace of new look Liverpool is anything but slow.
Thank goodness then, that somewhere in the city, at least a ten minute walk, uphill, from the nearest new-built food house, there are still the type of eateries which revel in a painstakingly attentive approach to their work.
Nowhere is this more evident than in the London Carriage Works.
Long regarded as one of the city's finest dining establishments, the Hope Street restaurant has held its head above the wave of new money which has swept over all at the bottom of the hill.
Its mantra is strictly holistic and that is probably why the Carriage Works sits comfortably among the creative and educational houses of the historical Georgian quarter without a hint of pretence.
In fact, it's the culinary crown of the sandstone stretch which runs from cathedral to cathedral where almost everything between is for the purist, slower in pace and a little better informed.
Its face fits in the city's most cultured quarter for simple reason, eating at the London Carriage Works is an enlightening experience.
Chef Patron, Paul Askew has been lauded a “genial genius, destined for the heights of Michelin”, by The Times, high praise indeed, but, judging by his kitchen's ability to deliver beautifully dreamt up plates of locally sourced food, praise warranted.
His marquee starter, a pairing of pan seared king scallop and local pork belly served with mustard dressing and parsnip puree with a tart apple salad is an unrivalled opening gambit. Cooked with expert timing, the dish is a delight of textures from tender fish to crisp pork crackling with a high-skill flavour set in between.
That geniality is palpable in the light drenched dining area at the Carriage Works.
It is apparent in all that goes on at the Carriage works. Not just in the assured and amiable staff, but also in the wonderful food which retains a degree of good natured honesty, something which is quite easily lost to contrived stuffiness when working within this kind of lofty price bracket.
With rabbit, partridge, mackerel and salmon all written beautifully on the starter menu you can't help but feel that, even with a well informed suggestion, you'll probably be missing out on a little touch of something special. These dilemmas are victories for the well composed menu.
The main courses are equally as well billed and, if they fall behind slightly in subtlety, that much is forgiven in the uncomplicated joy of quality, skilfully cooked meat served with classic accompaniments.
Taken from their seasonal menu, the pan roasted rump of Herdwick lamb with white asparagus, buttered cabbage and Nicola potatoes was just that. A tender rump juxtaposed with wonderfully seasoned crunchy spears of asparagus.
It's fair to say that with the price of the most expensive main (a stunning thyme scented beef sirloin) nudging £30, diners booking at the London Carriage Works will rightly expect a special dining experience, and the ability of Askew and his staff to hit that mark is unquestionable.
What feels like the most pleasing part of the visit, I mused while being refreshed by a crisp plum sorbet with lemon shortbread, is the absence of the intimidating formality that so often hangs in the air of top class food halls.
Indeed, if it is within the power of a restaurant to prepare an atmosphere to compliment its food, the Carriage Works seems to have nailed it.
On a light summer evening when the breeze ambles between the Georgian terraces off Hope Street, there cannot be many more pleasant places in the city. The restaurant's victory is in its ability to bring that most brilliant of outdoor sensations in. A relaxing environment which offers a quiet quality and dazzling food that doesn't daunt.
The London Carriage Works is a proud participant of the Slow Food movement which is currently promoting good food through a better understanding of its taste, quality and production.
Judging by the sheer knowledge of their trade, can there be a more fitting dining establishment to fly that banner in Liverpool?
CLICK RATING 9/10
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Between the 20th - 26th June diners can enjoy the prix fixe menu before 6.30pm and get a free glass of Prosecco with their meal. Mention “Slow Food Week” when you book.
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